National
Natural Protected Areas in Hungary
Hortobágy National Park
The Hortobágy, the „Hungarian Puszta” is
imagined by most people as a treeless, endless grassy flat land where cattle
flocks are grazing, sheep herds are moving slowly along and tasty but spicy
mutton stew is awaiting for the exhausted wanderer. Undoubtedly, the
thousand-faced Hortobágy may have a face like that, but our first national
park, established in 1973 with a surface of 75 000 hectares, has a lot more to
offer than “bridge markets” and “Fata Morgana”. In fact, it is a treasure of
nature conservation values recalling in Central Europe the mood of Far Eastern
steppes.
The Hortobágy steppe, the largest stating
ground of birds in Hungary (photo: Dr. Kovács Gábor)
The Aquatic Warbler has its second-largest
nesting population in Europe on the Hortobágy (photo: Dr. Kovács Gábor
The rare White-winged Tern nests on
Water-Mannagrass marshlands (photo: Dr. Kalotás Zsolt)
The second explains that they come with
nomadic people later, after they settled. The third, states that they were bred
form the ancient steer in the Carpathian basin of the middle Ages. The truth
may be in all the three versions. The meat from these cattle was world famous
in the 15-18th century for its unique flavour. At the end of World War II,
their stock was reduced drastically. Fortunately, the Hortobágy and
Middle-Tisza State Farms saved this breed using gene banks. One of our national
dog-breeds, the long-haired Komondor was used for house-guarding while the
other typical Hungarian breed, the Kuvasz was intended to protect herds against
wolves and robbers. The Nóniusz horse-breed was the result of crossbreeding
Spanish, English and ancient Normandian breeds that were brought into Hungary
during the Napoleonic wars. The significance of the flora and fauna of HNP is
internationally acknowledged because of its uniqueness.
Demonstration: nature trail with information boards,
look-out tower
These types of mounds were built by
nomadic people 3-4 thousand years ago all overin the Eastern European Plain and
Hungary. These were used for cultic and burial purposes and served as guarding
spots.
Walking along the trail we can find all the plant communities typical for the
alkaline grasslands of the Hortobágy. Patches of loess-plant communities can be
found on the burial mound and on elevated areas created by old rivers and
streams flowing here long ago. The most important loess-plant species here are
the Phlomis, Clary sp, Hair-like Feather-grass, Agropyron pectinatum,
Thalictrum minus. With decreasing humus content of the soil, loess grasslands
are replaced by Achilleo-Festucetum grasslands, where Achillea setacea and
Festuca pseudovinae are the dominant species
On poor quality, soils
Artemisio-Festucetum grasslands flourish with Artemisia maritima and Festuca
pseudovinae as the most characteristic plant species. There are two types of
plant communities that can survive on barren salty soil patches. Their
existence depends on different extent of water-cover during spring. In wet
patches Puccinellietum limosae dominates, while Camphorosmetum annuae lives on
drier surfaces. In deeper, wetter depressions one can often find a special
community called Pholiuro-Plantaginetum, with Pholiurus pannonicus and Plantago
tenuiflora as dominating species.
In the deepest areas, there is marsh
vegetation. Open-water surfaces of marshy meadows transform into reed- and
catstail bed followed by salty marsh communities like Bolboschoeno-Phragmitetum
and Bolboschoenetum maritimi. In wet areas surrounding marshes
Agrostio-Beckmannietum community grows on poor quality soil, while places with
better quality soil are inhabited by Agrostio-Alopecuretum
The most common mammal of the loess soil
patches is the European Souslik being the most important prey of some raptors
like Saker Falcon, Imperial Eagle and Long-legged Buzzard. It is almost the
only prey of steppe Polecats, too. Near the mound, in a Locust-tree plantation
Red-Footed Falcon and Long-Eared Owl nest occupying abandoned nest of Rooks.
Avifauna of marshes is characterised by Lapwings, Redshanks, and Black-tailed
Godwits nesting on the shore and Spotted Crakes and Common Snipes nesting among
the tussocks. The most common passerine of alkaline grasslands of the Hortobágy
is the Skylark.
In autumn ten thousands of cranes, geese and ducks migrate over the Hortobágy.
In October, we can easily watch them near and above the demonstration trail.
Winter landscape is characterised by flocks of Snow Buntings, Lapland Buntings
and Twits and White-tailed Eagles hovering above the horizon.
Debrecen
– In The Heart of Hortobágy
This church was destroyed in fire in 1564 and was
rebuilt in 1626-28. After the Small Church had been built, St. Andrew's Church
was been given the name „Big Church”. The town was given a 60 tons bell in
1836, the work of Johann Regner at the bidding of The Prince of Transylvania,
Rákóczi György I . A campanile was built for the bell in 1840-42; this
was the so-called „Red Tower”.
In 1802, the church burnt down again. The Rákóczi-bell fell down
from the belfry and when watered, it cracked and lost its chime.
It was founded again in 1875, the arms of the Rákóczi
family was cut out of it then; it can be found in the dining-hall of the
Reformed College, today.
The church can seat 3000 people. The organ dates back
to 1838; it is the work of Jakob Deutschmann, a craftsman in Vienna.
Thirty years later, the instrument consists of 3096 organ-pipes and 43
registers can be played. In 1927, electric blowing action was applied.
The
real importance of the church lies in its historical role. This was the place
where Kossuth Lajos read the Declaration of independence to the
people on 14 April and where he was inaugurated as governor of Hungary.
Behind
the Big Church lies an ornamental memorial park. The first monument - The Dying
Lion by Marschalkó János - was erected in 1865 to the memory of the
heroes of the battle of Debrecen on 02 August 1849. At the end of the century,
it was moved to the Cemetery of the Heroes. Now the statue of Bocskai István stands on its place - it
was erected to the third centenary of the peace of Vienna.
The statue is, in fact, the copy of the Bocskai-statue
by Holló Barnabás in Budapest. We can find its „relative” in the capital
of Reformation as well: among the great figures of the nation and Reformation,
there is Bocskai 's statue.
Near Bocskai 's statue stands the Column of
Galley-slaves In the time of re-Catholization 733 Protestant, preachers and
teachers stood vehmic court. Forty of the convicts were transported to Naples
as galley slaves. The Protestant world did not fail to respond. Protestant
cities like Geneva and Zurich collected money to liberate them. By 1676 only,
twenty of them were alive; their release was achieved by a Dutch admiral,
Adriansen de Ruyter. Switzerland, Holland and England were hosts to them until
their return in 1681.
There
had been a secular school in Debrecen even before the Reformation. When the
monks living here had moved, their school ceased to exist; it was the secular
school that the Reformed Church took over.
The College dates back to 1538. It was founded by
professors, former students of the universities of Krakow and Wittenberg.
Not only teachers and ministers were trained here; the
College gave such an education that enabled the school-leavers to continue
their studies; they could find a job as town clerk or go for a jurist,
engineer, physician or even bailiff. The leadership and merchants of the town
came out of the College.
Since Reformation times the students had been swarming
out to universities in Germany, Switzerland, Holland and England where they
spent two or three years.
The New College was raised between 1803 and 1816
according to the designs of Péchy Mihály. A visitor recorded that „the
New College has a stately building even if it cannot compete with the
universities of Berlin and Vienna it is a worthy match of the freshly built
university of Leipzig and ranks higher than the similarly new university
buildings of Halle and Göttingen.... the more humble building of the
Old-College behind it contrasts with it.” They could not even think of the
restoration of the old building since the oratorio and the Main Library of the
new building had to be finished first.
The
Old-College was demolished in 1869 and the two buildings were joined together
between 1870 and 1874. Thus, the college obtained its present irregular and
quadrangular shape.
The facade of the building is ornated by the brass
reliefs of Nagy Sándor János around the main entrance. The portraits of Zwingli
and Calvin, the great reformers were put up in 1931, on the fourth
centenary of the death of the former. Next to them the portraits of Kölcsey Ferenc,
Arany János and Csokonai Vitéz Mihály, the most famous students of the
College and their quotations can be seen.
The Declaration of Independence was worded and
discussed here. The printing press that had printed the Kossuth-banknotes
for the country fighting for freedom worked here.
The
main library of the College with its stock of half million volumes is the
biggest collection of that kind owned by the Reformed Church in Hungary. Some
of its rarities are unique in Europe and in the world, as well. Thirty-nine
codices from the 14th - 15th centuries written on parchment by hand can be
found here. One hundred and forty-five early printings (books published before
1500) and in the case of hundred and fourteen works the only extant copy is
kept here.
We can also find the New Testament part of Luther 's
translation of the Bible with Cranach's woodcuts (Strasbourg, 1524) here.
According to an anecdote minister Bálint, a
follower of reformation was arguing with master Ambrosius on this spot
with a branch of boxthorn in his hand. The Catholic Ambrosius stated
that the doctrines of Calvin would never grow into a religion. „ It
will be a religion „ - he shouted - „ when box-thorn grows into a tree.” „ It
will grow into a tree then! „ - minister Bálint answered and he planted
the branch into the ground. The little branch grew into a tree and entwined the
latticed windows of the vicarage.
The Eclectic building of Déri Museum was built
at the plans of Dénes Györgyi who was rewarded with the Cross of
the Legion of Honour and the Officer's Cross of the King of Bulgaria, and Aladár
Münnich, architect of the post-office administration building between 1926
and 1928.
When Déri Frigyes bestowed his collection
of great value on the city with the purpose of contributing to the culture and
the education of the young a new chapter was opened in the history of the
city's museums. The generous man could attend the laying of the foundation
stone but he did not live to see the opening of the museum.
The
museum was opened in May 1930. Artillery Colonel Déri György granted
his ethnographic collection to the town in 1938, it enriches the stock of the Déri
Museum since 1949.
The archaeological collection displays the findings
from sites discovered in our county - up to the conquest. The exhibition
entitled Settlement and Society presents the history, economic and cultural
life of Debrecen on to this day.
The Déri collection includes Greek, Egyptian,
Roman and Etruscan material and the Asian collection of the founder.
The
Jesus-trilogy by Munkácsy Mihály is guarded in the Munkácsy-hall.
Christ in the presence of Pilate and Golgotha were displayed to the
American public in 1886 - 1887. The two paintings were sold to an American
merchant - millionaire, John Wanamaker. They had been kept in a private
room of the Wanamaker store in Philadelphia since 1911. In 1988, Christ in
the presence of Pilate was bought by a Canadian collector and Golgotha
by Bereczki Csaba, the owner of the Pannonia Gallery in New York at an
auction. He deposited the picture to the National Museum, where it was
exhibited at Easter 1993.
Kiskunság National Park
The alkali steppes of Kiskunság which is a biosphere
reserve at the same time - can be characterised by the almost perfectly flat
natron steppes, halo Phil plant species, snow-white barren salt patches, high,
for solonchak steppes characteristic natron banks and by grasslands turning
into reddish brown to the end of the summer. The most valuable members of the
wildlife are birds. The elevated plateaux of Apajpuszta give home to the
strongest Hungarian population of Great Bustards. The secretive Stone Curlew
breeds nowhere else in such a high density than in this region. The stronghold
of the endangered Collared Pratinco's also nest here. Sadly, the Redfooted
Falcon, a once widespread small raptor of the Hungarian pusztas, is steadily
declining with the disappearance of large Rook nest colonies. Lower are as
filled up in the spring by water, wet grasslands play a crucial role in the
shorebird migration, but they are also ideal nesting habitats for Lapwings,
Blacktailed Godwits, and Redshanks at the same time.
A characteristic plant of open sandy
steppes, a Thistle species Echinops ruthenicus (photo: Dr. Kalotás Zsolt)
One of the most endangered birds of alkali
steppes is the Collared Particle (photo: Dr. Kalotás Zsolt)
One of the few halophyte plant species,
which manage to survive on, dried out lake bottoms is California prostate
(photo: Dr. Kalotás Zsolt)
In the central park of Kiskunság the fine grained sand
that were blown out by wind from the alluvial wash of the ancient Danube formed
the variegated dunes and ridges near Fülöpháza and Bócsa-Bugac. The surface
engraved by wind, the sand poor in nutrients is still acceptable for
Juniper-White Poplar woods, Fescue-grasslands and Feathergrass-dominated sand
grasslands. The seemingly poor vegetation hides rare species such as the
recently discovered endemic Helleborine orchid Epipactis bugacensis, and Joint
Pine, a Pink species Dianthus diutinus and a Saffron species Colchicum
arenarium. The insect fauna of the sands is surprisingly rich: the Snouter
Grasshopper, a Butterfly species Acanthaclisis occitanía and the Moth
Coleophora pilícornis to name but a Hungarian population of Great Bustards
breeds on the ground.
The largest Kiskunság (photo: Dr. Kalotás
Zsolt)
Characteristic vertebrates for the area include the
Balkan Wall Lizard, Eurasian Roller and Hoopoe. The stagnant waters on deeper
spots are surrounded by marshes and bog meadows. The damp and cool microclimate
of the meadows enable the existence of several postglacial relict species in
the plant communities including Grass of Parnassus, False Helleborine and
further 15 orchid species. Hungary's only endemic vertebrate, the Danubian
Meadow Viper still occurs on the meadows and the transitional zones of peat
marshes. A strong and new population of the Carpathian Basin endemic race of
the butterfly Rhyparioides metelkanus was recently discovered.
In the preservation of the Mangalica Pig,
the stock of the Kiskunság National Park plays an important role (photo: Dr. Kalotás
Zsolt)
The aquatic world of Tőserdő near Lakitelek and the
HoIt Tisza near Szikra is different from any other areas of the national park.
The ox-bows and mort-lakes with water lilies disconnected in time from the main
stream of the River Tisza, surrounded by hardwood and softwood gallery forests,
the Lily-of the-valley-oak communities preserve the romantic mood of Tisza and
diverse wildlife of wetlands with a unique integrity.
The national park participates in the preservation of
the genetic stock of some traditional Hungarian domestic races such as
Hungarian Grey Cattle, Cicada Sheep, Racka Sheep, and Mangalica Pig. Live
individuals of these races can be seen at the interpretation centre near
Nagyállás-Bösztörpuszta. The permanent exhibition in the centre of the national
park, the Shepherds' Museum near Bugacpuszta and the „Nyakvágó Csárda-Museum”
all serve the purpose of public education.
Bugac
– The Puszta
Bugacpuszta is a world-known tourist area, the discovery of this land started
in the last century. Lots of famous writer, poet, and painter visited
Bugacpuszta on Kecskemét's mayor's initiative in the end of the last century.
Ottó Hermann, famous natural scientist and Member of Parliament, visited here
in 1895, studied the ethnographical values and the mysterious world of the
nomadic pastoral life. On his own initiative was exhibited the pastoral life of
Bugacpuszta on the World Exhibition in Budapest in 1896. After that became
Bugacpuszta to a world-known land. To protect these values was founded the
National Park of Kiskunság in 1975. The protection of the nature preserved such
a speciality like Juniper forest, grazing lands of the flat areas decorated
with wild flowers, the buildings of the nomadic pastoral life and the grazing
native animals
Horse-show in Bugacpuszta
Bugac is the second largest puszta of Hungary, „the
pearl of the National Park of Kiskunság”. As you later the puszta, you find
yourself facing the Karikás Csárda (Restaurant) where - regardless whether
you've come through a travel agency or individually - you can choose from a
wide range of typical puszta-dishes as well as lowland-wines, while listening
to the special gipsy-music. According to the guests wish we can organize the
following programme as an afternoon, or an evening programme. Our guests can
start with the lunch and than see horse-show as well.
12.00 - Arrival at Bugaci Karikás Csárda.
At the entrance of the restaurant, you can taste a special Hungarian pasta-soup
with a glass of white wine.
12.15 - You are taken to the puszta by horse-carriages to see the main sights:
the Sheperd Museum, the stables and the native animal-species.
13.15 - HORSE-SHOW. The show is guided in English, Hungarian and German. The
horse-show is performed by 6-7 horse-herds.
- The horse-herds drive the stud of horses to the spectators
- Drawing up of the horse-herds, greetings
- Show of the „Puszta – fiver”
- Skill games (Laying down horses, sitting horses, whip cracking, trashing the
mother-in-law, take a sit game, hitting the jar, gallop with full glasses,
fox-hunting)
- Laying down donkey, sitting donkey
- Donkey carriage
- Guests can horseback ride without saddle and whip-cracking
14.00 - You are taken back to Karikás
Csárda by the horse-carriages and have a nice meal there. MENU:
- Apricot-brandy
- Open Air Pot Goulash
- Chicken breast „Csikós”style with garnish
- Seasonal Salads
- Bugac Pancakes on Flame
- Red and White Wine, Mineral water, Coffee
The walkway leads to the Árpád Memorial, designed in
classical style and erected in 1896 by the architect Berczik Gyula and the
sculptor Kallós Ede.
The statue was remodelled in 1997-98 by the sculptor
Buzár Károly and forms an enchanting backdrop for the national celebration
ceremonies and other events organised in the park. The traditional folk
festival of Ópusztaszer village held formerly on the first Sunday of September
was named after this memorial and is called the „szobori búcsú” (statue
fiesta). It is interesting to see the small tree ferns that grow in the limestone
of the Árpád Memorial. The curiosity is that this species also lives in the
Verecke Pass. (The route by which the conquering Magyars first passed through
the Carpathian Mountains into the Carpathian Basin).
The 120 metre long, 15 metre wide and 38 metre across
circular panorama painting recalls the events of history eleven hundred years
ago. The moment is captured with the help of brush, paint and canvas, artistic
skill and some imagined episodes of the conquest plus the imagination of
spectators. Many contemporary artists helped Feszty Árpád with the two year
task that lasted from 1892 to 1894. Landscapes are by Mednyánszky László and
the battle scenes by Vágó Pál.
Archaeologists in 1970 started to excavate Szer in the
acacia grove on the site of the current garden of ruins under the leadership of
Trogmayer Ottó.
A cemetery of the first Hungarian
settlers was found where the dead had been buried according to pagan custom.
Their settlement extended as far as the site of the future Monastery. In the
centre of the Mediaeval settlement stood the Monastery of Szer, which had three
main periods of construction.
The exhibits in these tent-shaped houses, designed by
Csete György and Dulánszky Jenő, are very popular and show natural treasures
and different building methods. The houses were built by banding the pine wood
according to a technique that is many thousands of years old. As in the ancient
ayurts” (tents) where fire flamed in the centre these pavilions too are open to
the sky.
Decorations in the glass roofs of the lantern light
cupola, the church banners (by Csete Ildikó) and the carved pews (by wood
carver Nagy István of Mártély) are all inspired by the goldsmiths art from the
time of the conquest. Motifs, amulets and buttons all date from that era.
History of wood process in the region of Tisza river,
Dikereeveís house and Fishermanís hut, Sheep pen;
Windgrist-mills,
Farmstead of Szeged, School of Upper-Pusztaszer,
Farmstead of Szentes, Post Office,
The Forge and Workshops of Wheelwrights and Harness
Makers, Fare station,
Community House of Vásárhely, Onion Growerís house of
Makó, Exhibition of carriages,
Fishermanís house of Csongrád, Tömörkény Village hall,
Sun ray decorated house,
Grocery and Bakery (with sale), Foresterís house,
Exhibition of Agricultural Machineries,
Narrow Gauge railway, Szentes-Donát Wind mill, Pub,
Market-place
In the wooded parts of the Park there are nice
clearings with playing fields and a path for circuit training. There are also
open fireplaces where you can cook over an open fire, or just have fun. Do not
fret if you have no gym gear, you can borrow balls, tennis and badminton
rackets even sledges in winter, but also wood and matches for making fire. As
we have mentioned earlier, you can see the daily horse show, but you can also
book your own horse show and folklore programme. You can taste some local wine
and cottage cheese buns baked in the oven in front of you. This will make the
day you spend in the Park at Ópusztaszer
International delegation of teachers in Ópusztaszer in January 2002.
Kecskemét – The Heart of the Kiskunság
National Park
Address of the Directorate: